Backpacking to the Bottom of the Grand Canyon

Six of us (not including our amazing guides Mandy & Kendrick) successfully trekked down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon for the very first time, and it was better than I imagined. We left the canyon with memories of a lifetime and included everything from unbelievable hiking, excruciatingly sore calves, beautiful vistas, wine smuggling, postcards by mule, strict dinner times, big horned sheep, surprisingly comfy sleeping pads, speeding tickets, and really stale chocolate cake just to name a few.

Our group picture after it was over, and we had a few drinks & munchies at the bar. Look at those smiling faces!

As we were first hiking down on Thursday morning, I can’t explain how overwhelming it was. I had no idea what I was getting into, and the view was just breathtaking. I actually got teary-eyed. I felt such joy and just gratitude that I was able to do something like that. The hike down was around 8 miles and on that last mile, my wobbly legs were ready to collapse. I just had to keep walking until I got to the campground, and when I finally got there, my tent was already up along with the bed and sleeping bag. Let me tell you. This trip without Kendrick & Mandy would have been a totally different trip!! It is not forgotten how much of a difference they made to the entire experience. To not have to worry about food, setting up, emergency kits, cooking, planning,… it was beyond priceless.

That evening we had reservations for a steak dinner at Phantom Ranch. Apparently Mandy got the time wrong and we showed up half an hour late. At Phantom Ranch, they have 2 dinner sessions and you are given exactly one hour to eat and they you are kicked out. That meant we only had half an hour to eat. Kendrick seemed to be the only one annoyed. The rest of us saw it as a challenge to see how much food we could scarf down in 30 minutes. We did not disappoint. I believe Kendrick even managed to eat 3 steaks. Rene tried to buy another carafe of wine (we had some earlier that day) but they would only give him 1/2 a carafe because we only had 30 minutes to drink it. Really? Do they not know how much 8 people can drink in 30 minutes??

Bright Angel Trail
The view from the bridge as we started going up Bright Angel Trail

Friday was a day of relaxation down at the bottom. We all got to do our own thing. The creek was serene and the sound was perfect as I was falling asleep. We finally tasted our backcountry meals which were so yummy! Rene and I took some pictures at the beach area and met up with Mandy & Kendrick. We also smuggled some wine back to our campsite to enjoy after dinner. Operation Code Blue a huge success!!

Saturday we made our way up the Bright Angel Trail and stopped half way up to stay the night at Indian Gardens Campground. We had backpacker meals for lunch and then headed for Plateau Point which was amazing!!! Talk about saving the best for last.

For dinner that night we each had a glass of wine that Anetta brought up for Phantom Ranch. Here I am hugging it. πŸ™‚

The last day was the hardest. Kendrick ran down a mile to see if any of us slow-pokes wanted him to carry up our backpacks. Leonore declined, so I quickly took him up on it. I have no shame!!


OK, so here are a few words about our crew and the people I spent the next 4 days with (my perceptions may or may not be factually true, they are just my usually very accurate observations):

Anetta: A lovely neighbor/friend who was crossing off one of her bucket list items. She was intent on sending out lots of postcards and appears to be able to eat all. day. long. Her backpack might have weighed more than her, probably from all of the snacks she brought!

favorite part: when you could first see the river, seeing Phantom Ranch, Mandy & Kendrick making coffee in the morning.

Karl: Retired Law Enforcement who now enjoys irritating his wife on a daily basis although I’m not sure who he’s fooling. He’s a proud Republican who owns a body bag (I’m not making this up). If you can get through that tough exterior, you will find a kind and decent human being. You have taught us a thing or two, Karl!

favorite part: Trying to get out of my shell and meet people that have different perpectives. Actually making it to the bottom.

Leonore: A fellow engineer from New Jersey. Leonore loves nature and is going to end up retiring and spending most of her time outdoors educating others. She even sleeps on the ground in her backyard on occasion. Leonore and I were the ones at the back of the pack, keeping it together. Or trying to anyway.

favorite part: Making it, meeting everyone, having a great time all the way up to that game. I’ve never seen that word in writing. walking across Kaibab bridge, feeling the oldness of the canyon

Monique: My dear friend of 8 years, and the only person I know who would immediately sign up after a quick summary of the trip. There’s never a dull moment when we are together, especially when it comes to inflating pillows, bathroom stalls, wine, and mice. She was the only person listening to music while hiking.

favorite part: knowing that I could do it, seeing God’s creation was absolutely beautiful. Postcards & pictures don’t do it justice. Meeting everyone. The view at Plateau Point and doing a plank.

Rene: A former Marine & Sniper, who is now a doting father with a smokin’ hot wife/bikini model. He’s an expert at smuggling wine and story-telling. He’s also good at spotting skunks and glow-in-the-dark leaves – no joke. Oh, and he was definitely the funniest in the bunch. And the fittest. But he’s a former Marine.

favorite part: Seeing the Colorado River and all its green and glory, the bright yellow cottonwoods – the sun going through the leaves. Being out in the wilderness. The view at Plateau Point.

Mandy: Our fearless c0-leader who is kind, strong, and so knowledgeable. She sees the good in everything and is so positive – she is a real inspiration to me. She is living her life, her way, and a truly admire her for that.

favorite part: Beating Kendrick at a game. (And she really DID beat Kendrick, contrary to what others might believe)

Kendrick: The ultra marathon runner who doesn’t like to button up his shirts and is a sore loser at Cards Against Humanity. And he’s a BAD ASS at carrying a sh*tload of stuff for all of us, including tents, sleeping pads, sleeping bags, food, and cooking equipment!! And he can put down some food – wow! Seriously though, I knew I had absolutely nothing to worry about with him as our fearless leader and emergency-trained can-handle-anything guide. I cannot begin to express the gratitude I feel for all that he did.

favorite part: Anytime anyone had an ooh or aah moment. I love sharing it with others.

Moments to Remember (or forget!):

  • Not being able to blow up my pillow after drinking 2 glasses of wine even though it inflated just fine the night before. Monique has a video but fortunately I don’t know how to upload videos to this page.
  • Rene leaning in and whispering “This is a wickedly naughty game”
  • Kendrick in his skivvies taking a dip in the river
  • Postcards by mule (postcards arrived 5 days after I got home)
  • Operation Code Blue
  • Karl leaving his bag of snacks in his backpack overnight for a critter to sniff out and grab while we were sleeping. We should have made him buy us a carafe of wine!
  • Rene and Karl sharing a tiny tent (I’m still laughing!)
  • Mandy always picking Kendrick’s card (is this a sign that they are meant to be??)
  • Fred, a veteran Grand Canyon hiker
  • Camp girl who loved chocolate icing
  • Backpacker meals are delicious, especially the Cuban Black Beans and Rice and the Pad Thai. Yum! And if you save some of the siracha powder to put on the rice, even more yum!
  • The Phantom Ranch Restaurant/Canteen was 0.4 miles away from our campsite and the 5 steps to get in and out of the building were HORRIBLE. And I don’t mean walking up the steps, I mean walking down with my sore calves. Have I mentioned my sore calves?!?
Those are the 5 steps!
  • The beach area off the Colorado River
  • Watching families carry their small children down (!)
  • Rene saving Monique’s life (from a tree!)
  • Monique getting called out for not using the proper paths. I thought *I* was a trouble maker.
  • Mandy & Kendrick making 4 hot apple cobblers at once. In a tiny stove on the ground. With headlamps. And it was still yummy!
  • The mouse and Monique screaming like a little boy
  • As soon as we get to Indian Gardens Campground while Kendrick is setting up our tents, Anetta says “When are we having lunch?”
  • Monique as she was approaching the corkscrew part of the uphill Bright Angel Trail “I prayed for everyone, even you Karl”. Karl’s response “I thank you for that” with a tear in his eye.
  • All of the friendly people at Phantom Ranch
  • Wine from a box never tasted so good
  • Kendrick’s yoga poses
  • Air shooting up in the toilets at Indian Gardens
  • Rene – “If anyone wants to know, there was booty touching”
  • The really noisy sleeping pad that Anetta slept in on our first night at Bright Angel Lodge
  • The stealth ninja park ranger who wore a mask and would sneak up on you
  • Kendrick the ultra marathoner – “Do you want me to run down and bring back some more wine?”
  • Mandy trying to drink from the carafe of wine as if it was her very own wine glass
  • Made fresh Monday, Fall apart Friday chocolate cake
  • Justin Tyler “we don’t need to involve Justin”
  • Me – “is the lemonade frozen?” Justin Tyler – “It arrived frozen” <insert sarcasm>
  • Rene – “I have a story…”
  • Mandy trying to desperately tell us that if we accepted the crackers and cheese, we would have to carry it out because she most certainly was not, but no one listening because it was REAL GOUDA CHEESE and it was delicious!

Perhaps I should talk about MY highlights and what I am grateful for:

  • The view from Plateau Point was a huge highlight for me. It was beyond words. You really do feel small when you are there.
  • I am forever grateful for Mandy & Kendrick for all of the things they did to make the trip enjoyable and a trip of a lifetime.
  • I am grateful that at 51 I was able to accomplish this goal.
  • I am grateful that Monique was able to experience this with me.
  • I am grateful for Kim who signed up Rene to go on the trip. He kept us all laughing and was fun to be around. (Monique, notice how I mentioned you before him. Don’t be jealous).
  • I am not happy about those 5 steps at the canteen. Every time I had to go down those steps, I thought I was going to die. Or at least fall on my ass. Thankfully there was always someone there to help me.
  • The heartburn from the wine was NOT fun, but well worth it.
  • I am super grateful for my husband who was very supportive of me going and to my kids who didn’t notice I was gone. (OK I’m exaggerating a little. Just a little).
I did it! And I don’t look like I’m dying!

Until next time. And there will definitely be a next time. Rim to rim anyone??

If you would rather watch a quick video, here is something Anetta put together of the trip, and it’s awesome!

AND if you you’ve ever even thought about hiking down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon but would like everything taken care of for you, you should sign up now. Mandy & Kendrick are planning to do the same trip 3 different times next year. Check it out!

6 thoughts

  1. So happy you had a good time , while your mom was worried to death miles away and unable to communicate with you!! Proud of you and all your accomplishments!! Love, mom

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